REVIEW: Gulshan, Aigburth Road

Over the past 26 years, Indian cuisine has seen some changes. People have stopped expecting the ‘one sauce fits all’ with a few variations and have come to expect bigger, better things and so they should…… Our new food reporter Holly Plant visits Gulshan restaurant on Aigburth Road 

Gulshan was first established in 1986 and the husband and wife team; Mustafa and Salina Rahman have been serving up delicious, freshly prepared food ever since. The restaurant offers an extensive wine and cocktail list, as well as a take-away service to cater for all corners of the market.

Delicacies such as Lambs brain appear on their award-winning menu, as this is an establishment that knows what it’s doing and how to source and serve quality ingredients! By challenging the palate with some extraordinary flavours Gulshan subverts the stale image of how the food should be prepared, served and enjoyed. With clean, delicate herbs, contrasting with fragrant spices, each dish tells a story of how Indian cuisine has evolved over the years. From the freshly prepared chutneys and popaddoms to the accompanying bubblingly delicious naan bread- each dish was a pleasure to eat. Every bite explodes into the separate flavours that make it up and then that little bit of ‘Gulshan magic’ brings it all together.

The Tawa Duck tossed with onions and peppers boasted fruity, pomegranate flavours and an underlying heat. Different textures, such as the tender Lambs brain and the crunch of fresh vegetables were a pleasure to eat. A comforting bowl of Nehari offered a rich ‘kick’ to the brisk, October evening and the smoky white fish with clean, charcoal undertones complimented the flavours of aniseed and mouth-watering sourness of the dish.

The Green balti was intricately flavoured with fresh coriander, tamarind, mint, green chillies and balti spices. The well-balanced heat and individual flavours were brought together with zingy citrus bursts of lime. An unusual side-dish of aubergine cooked with paneer offered a different take on Indian vegetarian cuisine…. apparently, it’s not all lentils and spinach! And the classic dish of Rogon Josh with tender, lean, chunks of lamb bound in a rich, tomatoey sauce was just as delicious and nostalgic as it sounds.

After this veritable feast, refreshing slices of orange and a hot, lemon-scented towel finished the night off on a light, zesty note. My verdict is book it! But be sure to work up an appetite before you visit though, as the portion sizes are very generous!

Gulshan
544/548 Aigburth Road
Liverpool
L19 3QG

0151 427 2273

www.gulshan-liverpool.com

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